Saturday 11 June 2022 – 06:45
After 51 years, Elisabetta Lenzi, identified to everybody as Betta, is retiring and retiring. From “Il Duomo” to “I 7 Tavoli”, by means of the Capraia with “Lo Scorfano” and the Yacht Membership of Livorno, it has been the reference level for an excellent feeling on the desk for 5 many years. “Now I’ll deal with the grandchildren and my mom Adriana”
He was sixteen the primary time he set foot in a restaurant. The calendar within the room secretly learn “1971”, the signal lit up on the entrance “The dome”in cost father Piero and mommy Adriana, now proudly ninety years previous. Fifty-one years later, Elisabetta Lenzic† or as Betta statedturns off the lights of his “Lampara” hand over to new administration and determine to hold the pan completely on a nail, rejecting its historic worth Marseillaise, gold document 1974. Vacation spot? Care, or quite half board, “perhaps part-time, however not extra just like the proprietor of one thing of mine, even when I had an ideuzza, however there may be religion (the now 41-year-old son and journalist of Il Tirreno, ed) that stops me. I’ve to be a grandmother to Bruno and Alice. After which I take into consideration Mother, I am 90 and he or she wants me.”
“After I thought of closing all the things up to now, I hadn’t considered that – she continues melancholy – I am a bit sorry to not go away on the crest of the wave, however a bit limp. Earlier than Covid it was a really completely different story. After all we had issues like everybody else, however in the long run it went by means of. Then the pandemic introduced us to our knees and, due to a scarcity of luck with the workers and the advancing age, I needed to promote and hand over.”
gray eyes and penetrating of those that are within the libeccio that caresses the Cala Rossa di Capraiahis second house, blond hair and rebellious, discouraged and bitter as a curled salad, a warrior soul, a nervous and taut face just like the dishes he has at all times introduced to his clients who’ve virtually at all times develop into mates. like that one laborious nostril squida historic recipe from Capri that he has proudly re-imagined lately for his restaurant right here by way of Roma 251.
Betta has at all times been like this, laborious nostril for higher and for worse. Bluntly, prefer it or not, however with an infinite coronary heart. A coronary heart that has at all times breathed in his dishes, in his manner by no means to spare himself in life or in work. Betta is as follows: from 0 to 100. An enthusiastic-angry-never tame† “After I’ve come this far, you already know it as a result of I by no means quit. I by no means gave up. And issues have by no means occurred to me in my life”. Like when risked his life †write it down eh, please inform this too, put this within the deck too) lay in mattress for nearly a yr after a horrible accident on the Cisa on April 27, 1985 when he was with Vinicio Saltini, Donatella Domenici, Francesco and Paola Salvinireturning to the . to see pielle in Varese they slipped below a truck after a tunnel within the pouring rain. “I nonetheless keep in mind the ache I felt. We actually risked dying. After I shut my eyes, all the things is in entrance of us.”
As a result of in Betta’s life there was, even when it was nonetheless dormant, the good ardour for basketball or quite… for Pielle who within the legendary 80s discovered refuge and refuge in one other place. “The 7 Tables” which he led from 1978 to 1988 there in by way of Montebello on the nook with by way of San Jacopo in Acquaviva† “What lovely seasons – Betta remembers from behind her kitchen counter, ready to activate the range for the final scheduled dinners – The entire staff on the pielle after which the opponents, the umpires, all of the basketball that counts. The libertas? Pusha away you already know… not even for a dream. It was proudly a small den. However not alone. In these years I keep in mind that he additionally got here to eat with us Gigi Proietti which I’ve fond recollections of. Enjoyable, straightforward going. I keep in mind him asking me for a bit of Parmesan cheese on the finish of dinner. I introduced her a pleasant piece that lay properly on a plate. He checked out me and stated: mso take off a bit and provides it to me, proper? After which too Claudio Baglionic† He carried out at Villa Mimbelli and within the night he got here to us. He got here in, stepped ahead and shook my hand, saying: have enjoyable, I am Claudio† And I replied: I do know†
Then there was the Capraia, the rugged and wild island, particularly between the 80s and 90s. Nonetheless to be found. And there Betta opened “The Redfish”† “These have been golden years. Making the season was actually worthwhile. Definitely not like now. I keep in mind the August of the hearth with a restaurant full and full of individuals”.
Then the little break from the catering. Additionally in Capraia the selection to separate a bit from orders and stoves. And he took refuge in a tobacconist that he ran from 1993 to 1998 collectively together with his then accomplice Armando Raciti. However the name of the Marseillaise, made in “Nonna Adri Since 1972” made with love and care, it’s just like the music of the siren. And so he decides paradoxically sufficient coming again on the continent and open one other room. Actual insanity, an actual paradox to consider it. That is what it was known as truly tapas restaurant and pizza in by way of Vittorio Veneto, a couple of steps from the police station, “The Paradox”† And this is the legendary one Rosary to bake pizzas and the aphrodisiac appetizer “Squid with almonds” or the elegant one “Shrimp Clouds”†
However for Betta, life by no means stopped. “A guide is not sufficient, I advised you.” So the help to land the golden objective of his profession. “They supplied me to open the restaurant of the Looking Membership† It was a really tough private time. I stated no at first. Wedding ceremony ring (sure, at all times the identical, the son who works at Il Tirreno, and many others) checked out me and stated: should you say no you might be loopy† And regardless that I am a bit loopy, in November of that tough yr 2000 I went by means of that door overlooking the lighthouse, with the scent of the ocean slamming in your face.”
These have been so many lovely years. Right here, among the many VIP clients, Betta had the consideration of serving Luca Cordero di Montezemolo† “However from a culinary perspective, say, as a buyer it gave me little satisfaction. I keep in mind he took a boiled fish. A sole and nothing extra. He advised me he wasn’t used to consuming loads.”
However brace your self. Elisabetta Lenzi’s curler coaster doesn’t cease. And so one other spherical of carousel with the opening in 2007 of “La Lampara” in Capraia† Some loves do not finish, they make big turns after which come again, Venditti sang. And for Betta, that blessed and cursed island has at all times been that manner. An excellent and infinite hate and love†
And 4 years later we arrive on the final stage of this nice infinite journey with the opening of the Lampara da Betta within the constructing the place the pizzeria as soon as stood Rosina† “I keep in mind a lavish opening. It was November 17, 2011. I went huge. By my facet my mom Adri, tireless, who, let’s keep in mind till two years in the past, was right here each morning getting ready sauces on the age of 88. After which the participation of my honest pal Luciano Zazzeric who has carried out us the consideration of being baptized”.
Sure, he, the one who the the pine forest, that of the Michelin star. “The chief. However for Betta he was alone Luciano† “A real pal. Deep. Typically we spent hours and hours till the morning chatting”. A really sturdy friendship born in these light-hearted and weird evenings of gangio in Caciaia the place they instantly smoked and acknowledged one another.
After 11 years, Betta turns off the lights on her Lampara. Change arms and go away the dc. “The restaurant will nonetheless be known as that, however the by Betta to shut the wording of the place”.
And the way will we do with out Betta’s Marseille? “La Marseillaise is coming with me. Likely. It is going to stay a reminiscence on the palate of my purchasers. Bitterness? I am 51 years previous, you already know. A life. A bit bit the Magone comes”.
No, it isn’t tears, it is just a bit libeccio that made our eyes purple whereas we have been writing, don’t fret. That very same libeccio that at all times drove Betta’s soul and hers loopy spirto guerrier roaring inside me…and that, let’s relaxation assured, it would at all times roar … even once we retire.
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