Argentine couple opens restaurant with Latin American meals within the Graça district

He within the kitchen, she within the preparation of drinks and serving of the salon. Whereas the previous creates the dishes, prepares the week’s menu, runs the range and does his finest within the presentation; the opposite circulates from desk to desk with an enormous blackboard over his shoulder and a phenomenal smile on his face, explaining, step-by-step, the origin, the mixture of elements and the entire inventive course of for every of the menu choices. day. This scene has been repeated for about 4 months in an enthralling mansion in Graça. Inside, the Argentine couple Gonzalo Rojas and Irene Lapuente, alone, with out the assistance of anybody else, lead the diners on a unbelievable journey by way of Latin America by way of gastronomy.

Tapioca with smoked and citrus mayonnaise, mussels and chalaca sauce

A person’s kitchen has no boundaries or guidelines, however follows strategies, explores the richness of Andean elements, flirts with Mexican delicacies and values ​​Brazilian merchandise, unites all of them, or not, balances flavors and textures and bathes, generally in palm oil, in creativity. Chef Gonzalo, 38, has a French and Italian background, however the soul of an Andean alchemist.

Roasted quail like mol poblano and northern humita

Born in San Juan, he studied gastronomy in Córdoba, and on the age of 18 he already ran a kitchen in his nation till he met the architect Irene, who designed the clear inside of the Graça restaurant, and after venturing into Brazil, two determined to settle in Pipa Seaside, in Rio Grande do Norte. The enterprise didn’t go very nicely and the 2 got down to discover Morro de São Paulo, the place they ran a restaurant for eight years, till they determined it was time for a change.

Termite no sous vide with umburana cachaça sauce

In February this 12 months, the facade of the gorgeous Fifties home on Rua Barão Loreto acquired a sober coloration and a graffiti that asserts the identify of the place: Andina Cozinha Latina. The whole lot there was designed to be loved, however the very best comes from the large kitchen that Gonzalo insists on occupying alone. And it’s value mentioning that Irene isn’t solely the channel between the consumer and the chef, however a great emergence in mixology. Pisco bitter (conventional drink based mostly on grape brandy, whose origins are nonetheless questioned by Chileans and Peruvians at present) is likely one of the lightest and most scrumptious drinks I’ve ever examined. And since we’re speaking about Peru, it is value noting that the delicacies of that nation, some of the acclaimed (of advantage) on the earth, is on the home’s itinerary. However with a contact of Nikkei delicacies, because the fusion of Andean delicacies with Japanese known as.

Tuna tartar in marrow

However conventional dishes from Patagonia and different areas of Argentina, Mexico, Colombia, Chile and different Latin American nations additionally keep there. Whether or not by way of inventive reinterpretations of the chef, or in its extra conventional format. It can all rely upon the inspiration of the chef whose will to take action is rarely missing. Two weeks earlier than I made a decision to write down in regards to the place, I went to see the proposal and left completely happy. With the menu and the pleasant couple who’ve good tales to inform. That’s, in fact, in case you are prepared to attend for the top of the toil, which is after they cease for a chilly beer and speak to the one who stopped.

Tamago with palm-fried chili sauce, crispy rice and okra

On the first go to the menu was one, on the second it was one other. I gave each the very best grades. In fact, it’s no abnormal meals, however for many who admire different cultures, it’s nearly a category, defined away by the pleasant Irene who once in a while turns to her husband to complement a requested info. Not as a result of she doesn’t know every part, however a journalist, you know the way it’s, generally she asks questions, examines particulars that keep away from even probably the most ready, as is the case with the chef’s spouse.

pisco bitter

However let’s go to the menu, which is sweet to say, is good for many who prefer to share, particularly whether it is accompanied by a great wine that, in fact, whose menu privileges white, crimson and Latin roses, particularly the natural ones that {couples} like to provide status as the opposite suppliers of recent native merchandise. Brazilianism is in fact current. Typically in tapioca, generally in palm oil, passing by way of different elements resembling dialogue with spices and merchandise from neighboring nations. That is the case with tamago, a Japanese omelette with eggs, sugar, soy sauce and mirin, which in Gonzalo’s kitchen is full of shrimp, roasted pepper sauce, palm cream, crispy rice and roasted okra.

Irene Lapuente’s demise

The Latin American character of the home can be revealed in elements which can be extra acquainted to us, resembling seafood, particularly from the Atlantic. One of many good decisions on the menu – which is now on this week’s menu, on the request of consumers – is the squid on the plate cooked with chimichurri, mashed potatoes and alioli. However watch out, the above-mentioned mollusk involves the desk way more crispy than we’re used to right here, however the crunchiness, the chef explains, is intentional. “We sealed it on the grill and added chimichurri to assist fry it and make it crispier because it enhances the seafood taste,” he says. The end result could appear uncommon, nevertheless it tastes unbelievable.

Grilled squid with chimichurri, cracked potatoes and alioli

In the event you favor birds, hope that roasted quail with mole poblano (a Mexican traditional) and humita nortenha (a kind of pamonha originating in Chile) are on the menu. The candy style of the dish within the chook’s meat is of a delicacy that makes probably the most demanding style buds completely happy. And talking of sweetness, it is in fact not value tasting with out dessert, proper! So go with out worry within the 13 spices with chocolate and cashews. It ought to be eaten by a spoon, cut up, tasting very slowly to find the spices which can be combined the place one after the other within the Argentine dulce de leche that the chef assures is nearly zero sugar. I’ve definitely already booked my third expedition to the Andes da Graça. I counsel the reader to do the identical.

Dessert: 13 spices with chocolate and cashews

Andean delicacies Latin: Rua Barão de Loreto, 26 – Graça.
Reservations: 75 98326-7555

Leave a Comment